Wednesday, May 28, 2014

Well the last few days in Grenada were a bit of a blur. We were busy getting ourselves and the boat ready for our return to Canada. On Saturday I did laundry and we watched the final of the Champions League UEFA (European soccer) at the yacht club. Once back at the boat we started packing and got the motor and dinghy secured on the davits.

May 25, 2014

On Sunday we moved from the anchorage to Port Louis Marina. Unfortunately we were put into a berth, not a slip (I didn't know there was a difference) without the correct power. We didn't have a cheater and because it was Sunday the marina manager wasn't available to give permission to move us. We were beside a couple from Toronto and were invited for appetizers and dinner aboard their boat. It was a good evening. They have been cruising full time for six years and have wintered in Grenada for those years. Lynn, in particular, is very involved with the cruising activities and gave us some good insight into them, including hash (a weekly walking/running program).

May 26, 2014

On Monday morning when the marina manager was in, we moved the boat to our proper slip with the proper power. I defrosted the fridge and we finished preparing the boat to be left for 3 weeks. Lynn used her contacts and arranged for a taxi to take us to the airport. We left the marina just before 1300 for the 6 mile drive to the airport. Our flight left at 1500 and we arrived in Toronto at 2025. It felt good to be back in Canada to see our kids and visit friends!

Thursday, May 22, 2014

May 20, 2014

Today we had another lazy morning. I'm beginning to really enjoy this lifestyle! After lunch we went into Grand Anse to find a computer store so we could print our e-tickets. Success! We wandered around Grand Anse with no particular plan in mind, doing a bit of window shopping, no buying.

My beef eating Argentine husband never ceases to amaze me. In the dinghy, on the way back to CS'ta Time, Jorge suggests stopping by a local fishing boat with two guys in it to see what they caught. After checking out their fish and paying a ridiculously low price per pound, (almost making us feel guilty but that was their asking price, no negotiating) we headed back to the boat with an extremely fresh red snapper for supper. After some olive oil, some spices and being cooked on the BBQ we had an exceptionally good dinner! Next time we'll buy two as one (just over a pound) wasn't enough.

May 21, 2014

Shortly after breakfast while enjoying my tea in the cockpit, a local approached in his small boat which was loaded with fresh fruits and veggies. We purchased some veggies and two mangoes again at a ridiculously low price. "Junior" also threw in a free papaya which he said would be ripe in a day or two. We read the rest of the morning.

After lunch we decided to go into St. George's just to wander through town, stopping in a few shops and making small talk with the local shop owners.

Hey Roy (Barrie Bob Cat), here's your competition in Grenada!

St. George's finest. 

Christ of the Deep.
Given to Grenada from Italy for their help when the Italian ship Bianca C sank.

Dinner and the evening were uneventful, reading again.

May 22, 2014

Okay so we are turning into book worms! We spent all morning reading. It felt really good not having to worry about the weather, winds, waves, travelling, etc. And we ask each other "what do you want to do today?"

After lunch and Junior's wonderfully sweet mangoes for dessert, we decided to take the bus and go to True Blue Bay. Of course our first stop was at Budget Marina. We didn't buy anything but needed to check it out. Right beside Budget Marina was Spice Island Boatyard. Jorge was asking prices, timing, etc. for pulling the boat out of the water and painting the bottom. Those three coats of antifouling are fading fast! We then wandered down the road towards the water, checking out some local shops and the True Blue Marina.


We travelled off and on from Sandy Hook, NY to George Town, Bahamas with Dave and Rose who were aboard a Catalina 42 named Cloud 9.

Hurricane tie down straps at Spice Island Boatyard.

Another gorgeous sunset over our anchorage at St. George's, Grenada.

We caught the bus back to St. George's and decided to grab a burger at the yacht club and do internet stuff before heading back to the boat for the night.

Monday, May 19, 2014

It is hard to believe that we have been in Grenada for over a week now!

Some liveaboard's baby anchored in the lagoon.

May 14, 2014

I think I left off somewhere around here.

In the morning, we checked the emails for something, anything, from Air Canada regarding our flights home. Nothing. I wasn’t sure if that was a good thing or not. The agent did state he would email or call if there was a problem with the credit card. We decided to put the flights home out of our minds and enjoy the afternoon.

After lunch we went to Grand Anse beach by dinghy. Grand Anse is 2 miles of white-gold sand beach. We plunked the beach chairs down in a shady spot under a palm and almond tree and then plunked our bodies down on them. We enjoyed a few cold drinks and some munchies while watching locals and tourists swim, fishermen pull in their nets and clean their catch. We were “liming” as the locals say! After about three hours of doing absolutely nothing we packed things up and headed back to CS’ta Time for dinner and a quiet evening.

May 15, 2014

It was off to the yacht club after breakfast to check on our flights. Again there was no email from Air Canada so we called and found out our next credit card was denied. Oh boy we were getting nowhere fast! Friends from Leeloo had booked their flights to Montreal through Flightnetwork so we tried that over the internet. Much better response. They immediately told us, via email, that our credit card was again denied but gave us a phone number to call. We did. Our second regularly used credit card was also denied. Jorge dug deep in his wallet and pulled out a card that he had been keeping “just in case” (which hadn’t been used in almost a year). OMG - it was accepted! Needless to say, our regular credit card companies are going to hear from me when we get back to Canada. We started the process of booking flights home on Sunday and we finally succeeded four days later.

After lunch we took the local bus to Beaulieu, a small town about 3 miles north of here, to visit “Spice Basket - Home of Our Culture”. The brochure listed complimentary fruit or rum punch, music from a steel band, a short theatrical production, a tour through the spice garden, museum, wildlife, etc. It neglected to say all that was during the tourist (cruise boat) season and we were now off season. The complex was like a ghost town, nothing was open! Oh well, we caught the bus back to St. George’s and made our way back to the dinghy stopping in a few shops along the way.

Spice Basket (closed for the season.)

May 16, 2014

Jorge took the dinghy into the yacht club right after breakfast to check the emails for the tickets home. (This is beginning to sound like an ongoing saga.) He spent more than an hour trying to get internet access. Finally the staff gave him the password to the “private” not “guest” internet, checked the emails and yes the tickets were there! Hooray!!

After lunch we went to Port Louis Marina to arrange getting in a day earlier than scheduled (due to flight dates). No problem. Wow, that was easiest thing we had done all week. We sat in the shade by their pool and had a cold drink before heading to the yacht club. Jorge took the dinghy over but I decided I needed to walk around the lagoon so agreed to meet him there. Besides, this gave me an opportunity to browse in shops that Jorge wasn’t interested in.

Tree outside the marina.

We tend to hang out more in the yacht club than the marina because it seems friendlier, more informal and yes the beer is cheaper! The security seems better though at the marina so that is why we are leaving the boat there when we are in Canada.

May 17, 2014

We decided it was advisable to sightsee and walk in the mornings as the heat and sun are getting stronger and stronger each day. We left CS’ta Time shortly after 0900 to visit the market. It was very similar to other markets we had visited along the islands with the exception that there were a lot of spices and spice trinkets offered. I guess that is why Grenada is known as Isle of Spice. We wandered the town, making our way back to the mall beside the cruise ship pier. It was nicely air conditioned and we needed that even though it was only 1030. Okay, so we left the hardest part of the morning to the last, walking uphill to Fort George. A private hospital was also up this hill and boy if you didn’t need a doctor before the walk, you certainly needed him when you got to the top! We took our time climbing the stairs and thankfully didn’t have to use the Emergency Room. Both the hospital and the fort have excellent views of the town and sea.

Sendall Tunnel linking the two parts of town without having to climb the hill.

Inside the tunnel, one way traffic only and pedestrians.


The library.
 
The hospital.
 
View of our anchorage from the hospital property.

Not sure if this ambulance is still being used!
 
The first part of the climb to the fort and hospital.


The Carenage from the fort.

The lagoon from the fort.


Quite the steep hill, eh?
 



We had full intentions of going to the beach after lunch but a siesta seemed like a better idea. After that, we went back to the yacht club and watched a soccer match and yes had a cold beer or two. (I have never drank so much beer in my entire life!)

May 18, 2014

We had a very lazy morning. Jorge started reading a book earlier in the week and spent the morning doing just that. I read the local paper, watched the activity in the anchorage and had a morning siesta.

After lunch we went to Grand Anse beach. This time we swam with the locals and tourists. The water was crystal clear and warm. The restaurant beside us had a steel band playing for the afternoon so we listened to them before heading off to find a bakery which also offered pizza - just what we needed for dinner after a hard day at the beach!
 
2 miles of beach at Grand Anse.


A local flower Jorge picked for me.

Yours truly.


The steel band at Coconut Beach Restaurant, Grand Anse.

May 19, 2014

This morning I am catching up on my blogging and Jorge is reading. Early afternoon was spent house cleaning and changing the engine oil. We are now at the yacht club putting the print material and pictures on the blog and of course enjoying a cold beer!

Tuesday, May 13, 2014

We made it! 10+ years since the idea struck us, the planning and the preparation.We are in Grenada. Somebody pinch us to make sure this is real.

Francine and Mario aboard Leeloo for happy hour on May 8, 2014 in Martinique.

May 9, 2014

We left Martinique at 0600 with Leeloo as planned. We first motor sailed for an hour, then sailed for about three hours until we got half way through St. Lucia when we had to motor sail again. Unfortunately at the end of St. Lucia, we encountered about a 2+ kt current against us making the progress really slow. I swear we looked at the same land mass for three hours! St. Vincent presented us with some rain but we were fortunate enough to avoid most of the storm cells. Winds were really calm the whole trip giving us very little waves which we were thankful for.

May 10, 2014

We arrived in St. George's, Grenada and set anchor around 1130.

Approaching St. George's, Grenada.


 
 
Fort George.

After lunch we went to Port Louis Marina to check in with Customs. As Jorge and I are leaving the boat here when we return to Canada, we checked in with the marina authorities and wandered around the marina, also enjoying the showers.


Port Louis Marina (see the Canadian flag).
 
We met up with Mario and Francine later in the afternoon and celebrated a good trip and arrival by having supper at the marina. It was a very early night (2000) as it had been almost a 30 hour trip from Martinique.

May 11, 2014.

Needless to say, we slept until 0800 and then had a lazy morning. It was hard to get moving. Mario and Francine left for Prickly Bay this morning as that is where they are leaving their boat for the summer, until they return in November.

After lunch we returned to the marina, worked on getting flights home and enjoyed the warm afternoon.
 
Almost all of St. George's shuts down on Sundays so there wasn't much to do although we did find an ATM that worked for us (the first one we found wouldn't accept any of our cards). I don't know what is more frustrating - looking for good internet or looking for ATMs that work.

Back to the boat for dinner and again a relatively early night.

May 12, 2014

After breakfast it was off to the Grenada Yacht Club to do laundry. Jorge went in search of Digicell (a phone company) so we could put money on a mobile that was given to us by some cruiser friends going north and who didn't need it anymore. As the Air Canada website did not accept our credit cards yesterday when I was trying to make travel arrangements, I called the 1-800 number to pay. I made the reservations and was given a 1-888 number to call to make the payment. Okay so the local phones wouldn't take my money or credit card as the 1-888 number was not free so I used the mobile. I was put on hold and that ate up all the time on the phone. By this time, we were back on the boat having lunch, so back to the marina to use the public phone. After calling the 1-800 number again, they agreed to take the credit card info and stated if we had not received email confirmation within three hours to call them back.

We enjoyed a cold beer at the Yacht Club. The weather was 27C at 1900 and we had a gorgeous view of the Caribbean Sea.

Back to CS'ta Time for a late supper.

May 13, 2014

We took the boat to the Yacht Club in the morning for diesel and water. While there, I checked the internet for our travel confirmation. Nothing. I tried using the same public phone with the same 1-800 number at least ten times and was told "the number could not be connected, please try again". We left the marina, reanchored, had lunch and then went to Grand Anse for a visit via dinghy and to find another phone. When I got through to the airlines I was told our credit card was denied. Okay, we'll try another one. The guy also said he would email us or phone us if there was a problem. Okay (again), we had to find a Digicell to buy more time. Luckily there was one in the mall that we were at. Jorge then visited a hardware store and tried to make a purchase with his credit cards, none worked. Meanwhile I was in the grocery store trying to make a purchase with my cards and none worked! We used the last of our cash for the groceries and then had to find a bank. OMG things were going from bad to worse! We found a bank and were successful in getting some money.  No word from the airlines denying our credit card but no flight confirmation yet either. (Sigh).

Blogging and dinner at the Yacht Club.

Thursday, May 8, 2014

May 5, 2014

As planned with Mario and Francine of Leeloo, we left the mooring balls in Roseau at 0600. We motored until we got to Scott’s Head (at the end of Dominica) and then had a nice sail across the Martinique Channel with winds 12 to 15 kts, just perfect for CS’ta Time and her crew. Once in the lee of the island of Martinique, the winds were erratic in strength and direction so we sailed some times and motor sailed at other times. When we were about 5 miles from Baie de Fort-de-France, the capital of Martinique, we had 18 kts winds on the nose and washing machine-like seas. Good thing it was for just a short period. Once inside the baie, the conditions settled. We had decided to anchor at Les Trois Islets and it was a good choice. It was a very well protected anchorage. We set anchor at 1430, then Mario and Francine joined us on CS’ta Time for happy hour. We celebrated a good day.


Our last sunset in Roseau, Dominica.
 

Mt. Pelee, Martinique.
 
May 6, 2014.

Jorge and Mario dinghied to Anse Mitan and cleared Customs in the morning. Jorge also found a bakery and bought a fresh baguette for lunch. We succeeded in eating the whole thing! After lunch, Jorge and I went into the town of Les Trois Islets. After buying an ice cream (which we didn’t need) we walked to the parish church were Empress Josephine (Napoleon’s first wife) was baptized. Unfortunately the church was locked and we couldn’t get a look inside.

We then set out to visit the estate where she was raised. The map and directions were a bit sketchy so after taking the wrong road at first, we walked 5 km to get there and only 3 km back. However it was good to walk off the baguette and the ice cream! Before heading back to the boat though, we did stop and buy another baguette for supper. The French islands are heaven to the taste buds but hell on the diet!


The waterfront at Les Trois Islets.

Store with typical fish-scale tiles on the roof (manufactured here).

Parish church where Empress Josphine was baptized.



Only the foundation is left of the original house (burned down when Josephine was 3).

Original stone work of the kitchen, now the museum.

Josephine's childhood bed.


Sugar cane factory.

Road leading out of the estate.

May 7, 2014

We had made arrangements with Mario and Francine to pick them up shortly before 0800 and take the ferry from Les Trois Islets to Fort-de-France for the day. It was about 15- 20 minute ride. We visited the parish church in the downtown square where there was a memorial service being held for all police officers who had died in the line of duty in France (a service being held all over Martinique and France). Next we stopped at the market. Here we parted, arranging to meet up with Mario and Francine for lunch. We visited a library, a theater, government buildings including the police station and lots of little shops.

Approaching Fort-de-France by ferry.

Parish church, Fort-de-France.

Inside the church.

The market.

Vendor in the market.

The library.

Inside the library.

Theater.

Government building.

Police station.

A scaled down version of the one in Paris.

We met up with Mario and Francine and had lunch at a restaurant in the market. Apparently “Chez Carol” was featured on Quebec t.v. by a Canadian chef who had visited the island and was impressed by the food.

Before heading back to the ferry terminal, Francine and I bought some fresh produce, the guys went looking for oil for the boats and we surfed the net at KFC.

After supper we spent a quiet night in the cockpit enjoying the peacefulness of the anchorage.

May 8, 2014

As previously arranged with Leeloo, we weighed anchor at 0900 and headed about 8 miles south to Grande Anse d’Arlet. It was, for the most part, a pleasant sail. Right at the mouth of the bay however we got hit by a gust of wind, causing us to bury the toe rail and had a wave of water come into the cockpit! We didn’t have time to check the wind speed but here in the anchorage the wind is blowing 20+ kts. The mooring balls are free here so no need to anchor.

The plan is to leave here tomorrow morning at 0600 and make a beeline to Grenada with Leeloo. The winds are forecast to be light and waves 2’ - 4’. It is roughly 140 to 150 nm so 28 to 30 hours, arriving Saturday morning. It will be an early night!